So you think you want a rabbit? This article may be offensive to some, but if you are offended by me making sure I land the best and most stable homes for my rabbits, then you can find a breeder somewhere else who really doesn’t care. I personally care about my litters, so. Anyways, so you decided you wanted a rabbit; whether you’ve pondered about it for years or you just suddenly woke up and wanted one. Is your job stable? Will you foresee yourself moving in the near future? Will that place be pet friendly? I understand that life happens and that it can be unpredictable. But if you want a pet of any sorts, you might wish to consider these possibilities first. It will save you heartbreak and the animals’ lives. When I thought I wanted a rabbit, I was about 7ish. And I tell you, I really wanted a rabbit. Finally, my mom got me a rabbit. And admittedly being the child I was, I lost interest right away. Don’t get your kid a rabbit unless you truly believe he will care for it himself, not neglect or abuse it and tell you otherwise, or get him one on a whim. Take them with you to choose; don’t just suddenly hand him a rabbit and say “here, Johnny, here’s your rabbit! Now go feed it.” Plan months in advance. Make them research bunny care and proper treats for the new family member. Shop for hutches and read articles on every breed you’re interested in. You might change your mind on a Netherland Dwarf and their fragile frames mated to reportedly vicious temperaments (trust me!) and decide a much bigger, hardier, laid back meat breed such as a New Zealand or Californian is better suited. Or you might want a giant breed like a Continental or Flemish Giant that reach 20 pounds on average and decide to get a Mini Lop or even a Holland Lop instead. Rabbits come in many shapes, sizes, and colors, after all, and it can be overwhelming at time! Sources to get a new rabbit vary, but if you’re a first timer, I recommend going to a breeder first. You will get the most information about the bunny from a quality, reputable breeder! You’ll know the age, breed, temperament, sex, and that the bun has been vaccinated and wormed before you even pick it up. If it’s an older rabbit, from us at least, their nails will come to you trimmed and the teeth will be checked and trimmed accordingly. We will also recommend to you correct feeds, veggies, and grooming. You will likely not get all this at a shelter or even less—if any at all—at a feed store or pet shop. No matter what animal rights activists claim, your rabbit does NOT need free roam of your house, or even an indoor home at all! 100% of our stock lives outdoors either under a two sided carport or covered hutches. This is just fine for breeders and pet owners alike! You can of course bring your rabbit inside at your own accord and do what you like. But a rabbit will be just fine, or maybe even better, outside in an appropriate, sheltered hutch. Remember; rabbits are more cold-hardy than heat-hardy, so be sure to keep the bun cool in the summertime and keep them from becoming—dare I say—hot cross buns! Box fans, ice packs, and even frozen bottles of human water work great. Also, if you’re a breeder, be sure to keep your bucks at a consistent, cool temperature, or else they’ll likely go “heat sterile”, where they lose fertility in the hot weather and will shoot blanks during breeding, if they feel like breeding at all. Regarding “bonded pairs”, I personally believe there are some compatible rabbits out there. Acadia and Sierra were running together, and then for some reason, Acadia decided to bust the divider between her and Astra, and they even slept together until Astra had her litter recently; never met before in their lives. Who knows? But again, no other source will be able to tell you which of their two rabbits will likely be the best pair. I know exactly who hates each other and who get along in my herd. I keep notes of the most likely personalities to mesh. Now, with this being said; I’m not anti-shelter. But if this will be your first ever rabbit, then I personally wouldn’t refer to the shelter, as tempting as it may be. Some shelters don’t even have rabbits because of their areas; farmers are more likely to eat the rabbits themselves than to take them to the pound. I personally fall into that category, too. For watering dishes, I recommend both bowls and bottles. Of course, both have their pros and cons! Some rabbits are ornery and love to play tip-bowl to spill their water everywhere, and these guys in my herd get bottles. Just get the heavy croc bowls, since the rabbits can neither chew on them nor knock them over. They can get expensive, which is why I tend to stick to bottles. Supposedly, bowls are better because they hold more water, but all my bottles hold more than my bowls anyway. I get the 32 ouncers from Wal-Mart; they are cheaper than feed stores at $3.50 average, and they are hardier than the brands TSC and Rural King carry. Plus, if your bottle breaks but the nipple still works, you can put the nipple on any normal pop bottle! Sirius has had an old A&W root beer bottle for a year now, handed down from his father who had it for a year before him! As for feed dishes, we use J-feeders (the hanging metal feeders you see at rabbit shows and in pet shops) or bowls as well. Some use the double holed cat bowls.